From the dog-friendly streets to the nuances of local culture, my first week in BsAs has been a whirlwind of experiences and discoveries. Dive into the pet-friendly ambiance, where dogs reign supreme but watch out for sidewalk surprises. Discover the cultural nuances, from navigating the distinct Argentine dialect to the challenges of communication. Indulge in the culinary scene, where delicious dishes come with the occasional 'cubierto' fee twist. Join me on the quest for USD amidst the city's currency challenges, unveiling the highs and hurdles of my Buenos Aires adventure!
Pet-Friendly
First and foremost, it is Very dog friendly here. Canine companions are a common sight at every turn—streets, intersections, parks, and cafes are all part of their daily stroll. With dogs both on and off leashes, the only places they don't venture are inside restaurants, gyms, and grocery stores. But with the abundance of outdoor dining options you won't miss out on the diverse culinary scene. Dog walkers/roamers also seem to be in high demand here. You'll encounter dog walkers effortlessly handling 8+ dogs on the streets.
Our cab driver, Susi, shared insights into the city's love for horse and greyhound racing, which unfortunately contributes to an influx of retired or injured racing dogs on the streets.
Thankfully, greyhound rescues play a crucial role in rehabilitating and rehoming these dogs, leading to a notable population of greyhounds (Galgos)
in BsAs.
However, with the abundance of dogs comes a downside—there is dog poop EVERYWHERE. While few conscientious owners pick up after their dogs (I’ve seen maybe 4 people clean up after their dogs in the last 7 days), the general trend leans towards leaving sidewalks covered in poop. Which brings up one big challenge of having a dog here - finding suitable places for bathroom breaks. The only places your dog can relieve themselves while you’re roaming the city is in the built-in planters on the sidewalks, this place really is a concrete jungle. So, WATCH YOUR STEP because you will inevitably step on a rogue sidewalk turd… or several.
Cultural Experiences
The locals are also generally friendly here, although I've noticed that only a small percentage, perhaps around 2%, are comfortable speaking English based on my experiences so far. Currently residing in Villa Crespo, an area with more locals than tourists, might be influencing my language encounters. Neighborhoods like Palermo or Barrio Norte, which cater more to tourists, may offer a different linguistic experience—though this remains to be confirmed.
In an effort to immerse myself, I've been actively working on my Spanish and avoiding defaulting to English while out and about. However, the distinctive Argentine accent can pose a challenge, especially as they use a different dialect compared to what I'm accustomed to in Mexico Spanish. For instance, 'tú' becomes 'vos' here, and the double 'll' sound is pronounced as 'sh' rather than 'ya.' So, instead of 'Villa Crespo,' it's 'Vi-sh-a Crespo' in the local dialect.
My primary means of communication with locals has been through WhatsApp. I've utilized it for exploring future rental options, connecting with my current Airbnb host, and seeking information about local gyms, among other things. However, I've noticed a consistent trend of subpar communication. When I send inquiries with multiple questions, only one question might be addressed, or I won’t get a response at all, requiring me to follow up for additional information. This experience extends even to communication with my Airbnb host. The most effective approach I've discovered is to ask one question at a time and follow up if responses are not forthcoming.
Culinary Experiences
The recommended food delivery apps are Rappi and Pedidosya. While I've tried Rappi, I encountered an issue using my US credit card initially. The app only allowed me to choose the cash (efectivo) option f
or delivery and would not allow for me to add my credit card info (Mastercard or VISA). However, I made a second attempt to try and figure out if I needed a local sim card – similar to the cabify app, or if it was just a no go. I figured out that I was able to add my DEBIT card and once I added that I could add my credit card at checkout. I am not really sure how that works but I successfully used Rappi with my US VISA! The app provided real-time updates on my order, similar to UberEATS or Doordash in the US. Upon the driver's arrival, I met him downstairs, received my food, and that concluded the process. Super Easy!
So far, the food scene has been quite satisfying, with only one notably terrible experience. The dishes have been flavorful and reasonably priced, particularly when considering the exchange rate for USD. However, I stumbled upon an interesting aspect—some restaurants impose a 'cubierto' or 'cover fee.' This fee appears to be a charge for
merely being present at the restaurant. The fee can vary; I've encountered amounts like $440 ARS (less than $1 USD) and $1,400 ARS (closer to $1.50 USD). It's crucial to note that these fees are per person, so for a party of two, it's doubled. I discovered this during my unpleasant dining experience, suspecting I fell into a tourist trap and was subjected to a 'gringo' tax. Curious, I delved further and learned that while restaurants are legally allowed to impose this cubierto, they must provide certain items to patrons in return. The law specifically states:
“with the description "table services", "covered" or any other equivalent name, must make the following products available to customers within the aforementioned concepts:
A MINIMUM OF 250 CUBIC CENTIMETERS OF WATER SUITABLE FOR CONSUMPTION, PER PERSON.- 2. A PANERA PRODUCT SUITABLE FOR CELIACS OR GLUTEN FREE, ACCORDING TO THE DEFINITION OF ART. 2° OF LAW 3373.
MODIFIED SALT, SODIUM FREE AS AN OPTION TO TRADITIONAL SALT.
TRADITIONAL AND/OR DIETARY BREAD OF THE CLIENT'S CHOICE.-“
Keep this in mind while you're out and about—it's not necessarily negative if there's a cubierto. For instance, if a place charges $440 ARS (less than $1 USD) and provides water, bread, and salt, it's a fair exchange. However, if you're at a spot with a $1,400 ARS cubierto and they attempt to charge you for water, they're technically violating the law by double charging for items. This practice is neither acceptable nor conducive to building repeat customers. I highlight this because I felt it was a hidden fee and want to raise awareness among others.
Currency Challenges
My final hurdle for this week is figuring out how to withdraw USD. While I've successfully withdrawn cash from two separate ATMs, the maximum amount has been $47,000 ARS or roughly $48 USD. At one ATM, I could only withdraw the equivalent of $5 USD. Unfortunately, both ATMs only offered Argentine Pesos, not USD. Online research led me to banks across the city, like Santander at Corrientes 4626, supposedly providing this service. Despite seeing a USD sign at one ATM, my attempt to withdraw with my Schwab debit card was unsuccessful. Even with the assistance of a kind gentleman who successfully withdrew USD, I couldn't replicate the transaction. The hunt continues, and I'll provide updates once I determine whether it's my debit card or another issue. Many have praised Schwab for its utility here, so I'll explore options closer to the embassy on Tuesday!
Side note: I'm seeking to obtain USD because many property renters offer better deals or discounts when payment is made with crisp $100 USD bills. This arrangement benefits both parties, as locals receive more favorable currency, and I, in turn, secure a more attractive discount for my stay.
What's Next?
This week's Buenos Aires adventure has been a captivating journey filled with intriguing encounters and valuable insights. As I continue to navigate the city's nuances and unravel its secrets, I'm eager to share more discoveries and experiences in the weeks to come. Stay tuned for the next chapter in this vibrant South American exploration!
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